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Historical Embroidery News...

Gilt shapes for goldwork embroidery

9/12/2019

6 Comments

 
Goldwork on vestments form the 19th and 20th centuries in particular often incorporates shapes made out of gilt foil. The most common ones are the domes representing grapes or the seals on the book with the seven seals (see picture below). Another common shape is that of a grain which was used to make up a wheatear. It isn't often that you find these pieces for sale nowadays, so I am really pleased that I am now able to offer you a wide selection of these shapes in my webshop! They range from the classic shapes to very finely worked flowers and stars. But first, let's explore their historical uses a little bit with some beautiful ecclesiastical embroidery.
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This picture was taken at the 'Goud, zilver & zijde' exhibition in 2011 in Deurne, the Netherlands. It shows a detail of a chasuble by Leo Peters made between 1910-1915. The scene shows the Lamb of God on the book of seven seals of the Apocalypse as described in Revelation. The domed shapes used as seals clearly show the tiny holes in the rim whit which the shapes are attached. Interestingly, the shapes come without holes. They are punched as required by the embroiderer. I use a sharp, sturdy needle and a thimble with a metal piece to punch these holes in. I usually lay the foil to be punched on a large eraser. Working carefully and slowly is key!
Picture
And here is a red chasuble (late 18th-early 19th century) from the Church Museum in Vilnius, Lithuania, sporting a bunch of grapes. The bunch of grapes is made up of domes of different sizes. The domes are stitched to a piece of gold-coloured fabric before being appliqued onto the chasuble. Each dome is surrounded by fine purl.
Picture
And here is an example of the wheatears from a banner from the 'Onze Lieve Vrouw Parochie' in Arnhem, the Netherlands which I photographed in 2011. Holes were punched into the tips of each shape and then attached. The outer holes also have a tiny little piece of purl stitched into them to represent the spikes.
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And here is another lovely example of both the grapes and the wheatears. This is also from a banner photographed in the Walburgis in Arnhem in 2011.
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If you are thinking of stitching your own bunch of grapes or even a book with seven seals, there are now four different sizes of domes/grapes available from my webshop.
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And I can also help with wheatears :)! From the simple to the exotic.
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And what do you think of these: roundels, stars & fleur-de-lis or droplets?
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But I like the flowers best! Think of all the possibilities. And those of you not adverse to a dab of glue every now and then can get very creative with even the tinier ones. Just make sure you test your glue first with your chosen fabric.

Which ones will you choose? Christmas gifts to self are allowed :).
6 Comments
Catherine link
9/12/2019 22:03:17

These look great, and very interesting! I will keep this in mind for my major metalwork piece that I will be completing in the new year.

Reply
Jessica Grimm link
10/12/2019 11:53:40

I will be looking forward to following your progress on your blog Catherine! Is it a piece for the RSN?

Reply
Catherine link
10/12/2019 21:37:48

Thanks Jessica! Not for the RSN, no. I made the decision that the best next step for my embroidery education was to go the route of a much more in depth and rounded education of all techniques and have started at SFSNAD. And I have not been disappointed!

Jessica Grimm link
10/12/2019 21:50:33

Good for you Catherine! And I am not surprised that you like the teaching in San Francisco; they do a fab job.

Reply
Rachel link
10/12/2019 16:47:22

Well, I don't have an immediate inspiration, but you can be sure I will be thinking about it!

Reply
Jessica Grimm link
10/12/2019 21:51:25

After counting them all out and re-packaging them, I was even dreaming about them :).

Reply



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