Medieval Goldwork Techniques - a journey through 500-years of embroidered history
As of 9th of January, the third run of my medieval goldwork course has sold out. If you are interested in joining a possible fourth run starting in the autumn of 2022, please drop me a line.
What will you learn?
In this new ten-week online course we will explore different forms of couching: underside couching, pattern couching, couching over padding and the queen of all couching techniques: or nue. We will explore each technique in its (art) historical setting. In each sample worked we will use as authentic materials as feasible. The beautiful goldwork techniques of the Middle Ages deserve precious gilt threads and real silk!
By attending the course you will gain in-depth knowledge of how medieval goldwork embroideries were made. What technical inventions revolutionised the process and the workshop setup. What inspired the stylistic language? You will learn about the close relationships between embroiderers, goldsmiths, painters and sculptors. Who were these embroiderers? Did they see themselves as artists? How were they organised? Who did they work for?
The core of the course form the embroidery samples you will work. They are all inspired by actual medieval embroideries. You will handle luxury fabrics like samite and silk twill, as well as high-quality gilt threads and different kinds of beautiful silk yarn. After taking this course, you will know the benefits of using madder, sienna and iron gall ink. This course is directed at embroiderers beyond the level of absolute beginner. With the possible exception of or nue, none of the techniques are (technically) difficult. The techniques covered will form the basis for future (online) historical goldwork embroidery courses I am developing.
In this new ten-week online course we will explore different forms of couching: underside couching, pattern couching, couching over padding and the queen of all couching techniques: or nue. We will explore each technique in its (art) historical setting. In each sample worked we will use as authentic materials as feasible. The beautiful goldwork techniques of the Middle Ages deserve precious gilt threads and real silk!
By attending the course you will gain in-depth knowledge of how medieval goldwork embroideries were made. What technical inventions revolutionised the process and the workshop setup. What inspired the stylistic language? You will learn about the close relationships between embroiderers, goldsmiths, painters and sculptors. Who were these embroiderers? Did they see themselves as artists? How were they organised? Who did they work for?
The core of the course form the embroidery samples you will work. They are all inspired by actual medieval embroideries. You will handle luxury fabrics like samite and silk twill, as well as high-quality gilt threads and different kinds of beautiful silk yarn. After taking this course, you will know the benefits of using madder, sienna and iron gall ink. This course is directed at embroiderers beyond the level of absolute beginner. With the possible exception of or nue, none of the techniques are (technically) difficult. The techniques covered will form the basis for future (online) historical goldwork embroidery courses I am developing.
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Lesson 1 is devoted to setting up your slate frame with 48 ct evenweave linen. This type of embroidery frame was most likely used in the medieval period too. It is strongly advised to use a slate frame or a comparable frame that will allow you to keep your fabric drum-taut at all times. An embroidery hoop is unsuitable for this course. Please don't use one!
Introduction Video: 8 min. Instruction Video: 66 min. Hand-out: 4 pages Time needed for practical work: c. 2,5 hours |
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In lesson 2 you will learn to stitch on silk samite. Samite was the fabric choice for the oldest surviving gold embroideries in Europe. These were made around the year AD 1000. It is a super-luxurious fabric hard to come by nowadays. The stitching consists of couching down a single thread of passing thread with a silken sewing thread. The sample measures c. 15 x 15 cm and is further embellished with cultivated freshwater pearls. Many medieval pieces had pearls on them originally. As these were easy to re-use, most pieces have lost part of their original splendour.
Introduction Video: 6 min. Instruction Video: 42 min. Hand-out: 25 pages Time needed for practical work: c. 8 hours |
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For lesson 3 you will recreate a small piece of an Opus Anglicanum liturgical shoe worn by an abbot. The original dates to the end of the 12th century and was found in his tomb. The cute little lion is stitched in underside couching on heavy silk twill fabric. Another favourite fabric used in medieval goldwork embroidery. The stitched area measures c. 4,8 by 4,6 cm.
Introduction Video: 3 min. Instruction Video: 60 min. Hand-out: 15 pages Time needed for practical work: c. 11 hours |
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Lesson 4 is devoted to underside pattern or diaper couching. You will stitch a 3x3 cm sample on a piece of 52ct evenweave linen. The double chevron pattern is one of the more common patterns found in diaper or pattern couching. Underside couching makes for a very durable background. Even when the goldthreads on the front disappear, the small piece of goldthread caught between the linen threads stays put and the pattern remains legible as dots.
Introduction Video: 5 min. Instruction Video: 28 min. Hand-out: 27 pages Time needed for practical work: c. 7 hours. |
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In lesson 5 you will learn all about the four most popular diaper patterns in late-medieval goldwork embroidery. We will apply madder dye to our fabric just as the embroiderers in the medieval period did. This makes the golden surface look even smoother. You will work an 4x6 cm sample on 48ct linen with fine red and yellow silk.
Introduction Video: 5 min. Instruction Video: 19 min. Hand-out: 18 pages Time needed for practical work: c. 9 hours. |
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In lesson 6 we will explore a readily recognisable detail from German medieval goldwork embroideries. These spirals or suns, as they are called, were the pattern of choice to fill in the backgrounds of largely standardized scenes from Jesus' life. You will work a 3,5x3,5 cm sample on 48ct linen with fine red silk.
Introduction Video: 8 min. Instruction Video: 52 min. Hand-out: 15 pages Time needed for practical work: c. 1 hour |
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Lesson 7 is devoted to different types of basket weave over padding. This goldwork technique is often seen as a kind of 3D-frame surrounding the orphreys. You will work a c. 7,5x5 cm sample with several patterns over linen string on 48ct linen.
Introduction Video: 6 min. Instruction Video: 30 min. Hand-out: 18 pages Time needed for practical work: c. 11 hours |
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In lesson 8 we will recreate a particularly elaborate diaper pattern worked over string padding. Not so much seen in orphreys from the Netherlands, but more common in Central and Southern Europe. Although the same popular basket weave diaper pattern is being used, the effect is so much more three-dimensional. And the hours involved in creating it are less compared to 'simple' flat diaper couching. Your sample will be c. 5x5 cm in size and stitched on 48ct linen.
Introduction Video: 6 min. Instruction Video: 15 min. Hand-out: 19 pages Time needed for the practical work: c. 4.5 hours. |
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For lesson 9 we will recreate part of the dress of Mary Magdalene in or nue. The original is featured on an orphrey made in AD 1530-1535 in a workshop in Amsterdam. In my opinion, this workshop produced some of the finest or nue figures that have survived to the present day. The drawings for the original patterns for these figures were made by Jacob Corneliszoon van Oostsanen (c. 1475-1533). With this last sample of medieval goldwork, we move away from a purely technical aspect of stitching and into the realm of creativity and art. The sample measures c. 6.5x5 cm and is stitched on 48ct linen.
Introduction Video: 5 min. Instruction Video: 1 hour 35 min. Hand-out: 25 pages Time needed for practical work: c. 19 hours. |
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Lesson 10 is used to catch up and as a re-cap of the past nine weeks of embroidering through 500-years of medieval history.
What will you need?
A full kit with all the fabrics, spools of real goldthread, bundles of silk, needles and design transfer materials will be provided and is included in the course fee. In addition, you will need a c. 61 cm (length of webbing) slate frame (and the materials for setting it up: webbing, strong sewing thread, bracing needle and string). All projects will fit on this size slate frame and there is no need to reframe in between projects. Furthermore: scissors, baby brush, ruler, kitchen towel and a small jar with a lid (think small marmelade glass). You will probably also need magnification. It is important that you can see all the stitching detail in the instruction videos. It is therefore recommended to watch them on a larger screen such as a computer, laptop or tablet. You will also need to have a good digital camera (that of your tablet or phone will usually do) to take pictures of your work and upload them onto Padlet.
What level of embroidery experience do you need?
Whilst it is not at all necessary to have any experience in goldwork embroidery, you do need to be beyond a total beginner in embroidery. Nobody but you can determine if this course is right for you. That's why I have provided pictures of all samples with their sizes.
What else should I bring as a student?
As medieval goldwork embroidery is 99% ecclesiastical, you need to have an affinity with Christian iconography.
What will the teaching format be?
Each lesson will comprise of a PDF-download with all the historical and technical information on the particular technique explored, a short video abstract of that information, a video of me working the sample and giving tips, a zoom-meeting where you can meet fellow students and discuss the lesson and a Padlet classroom where you can find all the course material and keep in touch with your fellow students. And as always, I am only an email away!
The lessons will be released on Padlet each Monday at 10 am CET/UTC+1 (and 10 am CEST/UTC+2 from 28-03-22) (i.e. PDF-download, a video abstract and a video of me working the sample). Students can log onto Padlet and access the new lesson (dates: 21-03-22, 28-03-22, 04-04-22, 11-04-22, 18-04-22, 25-04-22, 02-05-22, 09-05-22, 16-05-22 and 23-05-22). Access to Padlet and all course material is guaranteed until 28-05-23. The zoom-meetings will take place on Saturdays 19h CET/UTC+1 (and 19h CEST/UTC+2 from 02-04-22) (dates: 26-03-22, 02-04-22, 09-04-22, 16-04-22, 23-04-22, 30-04-22, 07-05-22, 14-05-22, 21-05-22 and 28-05-22). You can check your local time on this website. Students are expected to attend and share pictures of their progress in a friendly and encouraging atmosphere. When you are not comfortable with sharing pictures of your work this course is not for you.
What is Padlet?
A Padlet is a digital pinboard. Each lesson has its own column with the contents of that lesson. Students can add progress pictures and react on posts. The course padlet is a "members only" version limited to the tutor and the 15 students taking part in the course. The owner of the course padlet (me) has paid a subscription fee. This means that it does look a bit like Facebook, but Padlet does not have ads nor is your personal data being used to profile you. Padlet is available as an app for your computer, tablet or phone. Students do need to install the app and sign up for free.
What will it cost?
The fee for this 10-week in-depth hands-on and academic medieval goldwork embroidery course will be €725 (incl. 19% VAT) (we will work with REAL goldthreads this time). This includes a full kit but excludes shipping fees. The full course fee needs to be paid upon registration. The course fee is non-refundable. Due to the pandemic, your kit ships soon after registration to make sure it arrives in time. Therefore cancellations cannot be honoured.
The course fee needs to be paid through my webshop with PayPal. Unfortunately, my website provider does not allow alternative payment options. Processing registration and payment through my webshop ensures everyone a fair chance at securing one of the 15 spots available for this course.
Due to BREXIT I am unable to accept payments from or ship kits to the United Kingdom (with the exception of Northern Ireland).
Questions?
Here to help! Shoot me an email. If the question is relevant for all prospective students, I will update this page accordingly.
A full kit with all the fabrics, spools of real goldthread, bundles of silk, needles and design transfer materials will be provided and is included in the course fee. In addition, you will need a c. 61 cm (length of webbing) slate frame (and the materials for setting it up: webbing, strong sewing thread, bracing needle and string). All projects will fit on this size slate frame and there is no need to reframe in between projects. Furthermore: scissors, baby brush, ruler, kitchen towel and a small jar with a lid (think small marmelade glass). You will probably also need magnification. It is important that you can see all the stitching detail in the instruction videos. It is therefore recommended to watch them on a larger screen such as a computer, laptop or tablet. You will also need to have a good digital camera (that of your tablet or phone will usually do) to take pictures of your work and upload them onto Padlet.
What level of embroidery experience do you need?
Whilst it is not at all necessary to have any experience in goldwork embroidery, you do need to be beyond a total beginner in embroidery. Nobody but you can determine if this course is right for you. That's why I have provided pictures of all samples with their sizes.
What else should I bring as a student?
As medieval goldwork embroidery is 99% ecclesiastical, you need to have an affinity with Christian iconography.
What will the teaching format be?
Each lesson will comprise of a PDF-download with all the historical and technical information on the particular technique explored, a short video abstract of that information, a video of me working the sample and giving tips, a zoom-meeting where you can meet fellow students and discuss the lesson and a Padlet classroom where you can find all the course material and keep in touch with your fellow students. And as always, I am only an email away!
The lessons will be released on Padlet each Monday at 10 am CET/UTC+1 (and 10 am CEST/UTC+2 from 28-03-22) (i.e. PDF-download, a video abstract and a video of me working the sample). Students can log onto Padlet and access the new lesson (dates: 21-03-22, 28-03-22, 04-04-22, 11-04-22, 18-04-22, 25-04-22, 02-05-22, 09-05-22, 16-05-22 and 23-05-22). Access to Padlet and all course material is guaranteed until 28-05-23. The zoom-meetings will take place on Saturdays 19h CET/UTC+1 (and 19h CEST/UTC+2 from 02-04-22) (dates: 26-03-22, 02-04-22, 09-04-22, 16-04-22, 23-04-22, 30-04-22, 07-05-22, 14-05-22, 21-05-22 and 28-05-22). You can check your local time on this website. Students are expected to attend and share pictures of their progress in a friendly and encouraging atmosphere. When you are not comfortable with sharing pictures of your work this course is not for you.
What is Padlet?
A Padlet is a digital pinboard. Each lesson has its own column with the contents of that lesson. Students can add progress pictures and react on posts. The course padlet is a "members only" version limited to the tutor and the 15 students taking part in the course. The owner of the course padlet (me) has paid a subscription fee. This means that it does look a bit like Facebook, but Padlet does not have ads nor is your personal data being used to profile you. Padlet is available as an app for your computer, tablet or phone. Students do need to install the app and sign up for free.
What will it cost?
The fee for this 10-week in-depth hands-on and academic medieval goldwork embroidery course will be €725 (incl. 19% VAT) (we will work with REAL goldthreads this time). This includes a full kit but excludes shipping fees. The full course fee needs to be paid upon registration. The course fee is non-refundable. Due to the pandemic, your kit ships soon after registration to make sure it arrives in time. Therefore cancellations cannot be honoured.
The course fee needs to be paid through my webshop with PayPal. Unfortunately, my website provider does not allow alternative payment options. Processing registration and payment through my webshop ensures everyone a fair chance at securing one of the 15 spots available for this course.
Due to BREXIT I am unable to accept payments from or ship kits to the United Kingdom (with the exception of Northern Ireland).
Questions?
Here to help! Shoot me an email. If the question is relevant for all prospective students, I will update this page accordingly.