Medieval Goldwork Techniques - a journey through 500-years of embroidered history
This 10-week course starts on Monday, February 1st 2021 and will run until Saturday 10th of April 2021. Registration starts Sunday, November 1st 19h CET (Central European Time). The registration link will appear here.
What will you learn?
In this new ten-week online course we will explore different forms of couching: underside couching, pattern couching, couching over padding and the queen of all couching techniques: or nue. We will explore each technique in its (art) historical setting. In each sample worked we will use as authentic materials as feasible. The beautiful goldwork techniques of the Middle Ages deserve precious gilt threads and real silk!
By attending the course you will gain in-depth knowledge of how medieval goldwork embroideries were made. What technical inventions revolutionised the process and the workshop setup. What inspired the stylistic language? You will learn about the close relationships between embroiderers, goldsmiths, painters and sculptors. Who were these embroiderers? Did they see themselves as artists? How were they organised? Who did they work for?
The core of the course form the embroidery samples you will work. They are all inspired by actual medieval embroideries. You will handle luxury fabrics like samite and silk twill, as well as high-quality gilt threads and different kinds of beautiful silk yarn. After taking this course, you will know the benefits of using madder, sienna and iron gall ink. This course is directed at embroiderers beyond the level of absolute beginner. With the possible exception of or nue, none of the techniques are (technically) difficult. The techniques covered will form the basis for future (online) historical goldwork embroidery courses I am developing.
What will you learn?
In this new ten-week online course we will explore different forms of couching: underside couching, pattern couching, couching over padding and the queen of all couching techniques: or nue. We will explore each technique in its (art) historical setting. In each sample worked we will use as authentic materials as feasible. The beautiful goldwork techniques of the Middle Ages deserve precious gilt threads and real silk!
By attending the course you will gain in-depth knowledge of how medieval goldwork embroideries were made. What technical inventions revolutionised the process and the workshop setup. What inspired the stylistic language? You will learn about the close relationships between embroiderers, goldsmiths, painters and sculptors. Who were these embroiderers? Did they see themselves as artists? How were they organised? Who did they work for?
The core of the course form the embroidery samples you will work. They are all inspired by actual medieval embroideries. You will handle luxury fabrics like samite and silk twill, as well as high-quality gilt threads and different kinds of beautiful silk yarn. After taking this course, you will know the benefits of using madder, sienna and iron gall ink. This course is directed at embroiderers beyond the level of absolute beginner. With the possible exception of or nue, none of the techniques are (technically) difficult. The techniques covered will form the basis for future (online) historical goldwork embroidery courses I am developing.
|
Lesson 1 is devoted to setting up your slate frame. This type of embroidery frame was most likely used in the medieval period too. It is strongly advised to use a slate frame or a comparable frame that will allow you to keep your fabric drum-taut at all times. An embroidery hoop is unsuitable for this course. Please don't use one!
|
|
|
In lesson 2 you will learn to stitch on silk samite. Samite was the fabric choice for the oldest surviving gold embroideries in Europe. These were made around the year AD 1000. It is a super-luxurious fabric hard to come by nowadays. The stitching consists of couching down a single thread of passing thread with a silken sewing thread. The sample measures c. 18 x 18 cm and is further embellished with cultivated freshwater pearls. Many medieval pieces had pearls on them originally. As these were easy to re-use, most pieces have lost part of their original splendour.
|
|
For lesson 3 you will recreate a small piece of an Opus Anglicanum liturgical shoe worn by an abbot. The original dates to the end of the 12th century and was found in his tomb. The cute little lion is stitched in underside couching on madder-dyed silk twill fabric. Another favourite fabric used in medieval goldwork embroidery. The stitched area measures c. 4,5 by 4,7 cm.
|
|
|
Lesson 4 is devoted to underside pattern or diaper couching. You will stitch a 3x3 cm sample on a piece of c. 53ct antique linen. The double chevron pattern is one of the more common patterns found in diaper or pattern couching. Underside couching makes for a very durable background. Even when the goldthreads on the front disappear, the small piece of goldthread caught between the linen threads stays put and the pattern remains legible as dots.
|
|
In lesson 5 you will learn all about the four most popular diaper patterns in late-medieval goldwork embroidery. We will apply madder dye to our fabric just as the embroiderers in the medieval period did. This makes the gold shine even warmer. You will work an 8x8 cm sample on 40ct linen with fine red and yellow silk.
NOTE: the stitching of the actual pattern has been delayed due to delivery issues. All materials have now arrived and stitching will soon commence. |
|
|
In lesson 6 we will explore a readily recognisable detail from German medieval goldwork embroideries. These spirals or suns, as they are called, were the pattern of choice to fill in the backgrounds of largely standardized scenes from Jesus' life. You will work a 5x5 cm sample on 40ct linen with fine red silk.
NOTE: the stitching of the actual pattern has been delayed due to delivery issues. All materials have now arrived and stitching will soon commence. |
|
Lesson 7 is devoted to different types of basket weave over padding. This goldwork technique is often seen as a kind of frame surrounding the orphreys. You will work a c. 7x5 cm sample with several patterns over linen string on 40ct linen. Here is an example of the most basic pattern as stitched around the outside of Saint Lawrence.
NOTE: the stitching of the actual pattern has been delayed due to delivery issues. All materials have now arrived and stitching will soon commence. |
|
|
In lesson 8 we will recreate a particularly elaborate diaper pattern worked over string padding. Not so much seen in orphreys from the Netherlands, but more common in Central and Southern Europe. Although the same popular basket weave diaper pattern is being used, the effect is so much more three-dimensional. And the hours involved in creating it are more too compared to 'simple' flat diaper couching. Your sample will be c. 5x5 cm in size and stitched on 40ct linen
NOTE: the stitching of the actual pattern has been delayed due to delivery issues. All materials have now arrived and stitching will soon commence. |
|
For lesson 9 we will recreate part of the dress of Mary Magdalene in or nue. The original is featured on an orphrey made in AD 1530-1535 in a workshop in Amsterdam. In my opinion, this workshop produced some of the finest or nue figures that have survived to the present day. The drawings for the original patterns for these figures were made by Jacob Corneliszoon van Oostsanen (c. 1475-1533). With this last sample of medieval goldwork, we move away from a purely technical aspect of stitching and into the realm of creativity and art. The sample measures c. 5x8 cm and is stitched on 40ct linen.
|
|
Lesson 10 is used to catch up and as a re-cap of the past nine weeks of embroidering through 500-years of medieval history.
What will you need?
A full kit with all the fabrics, spools of goldthreads, bundles of silk, needles and design transfer materials will be provided and is included in the course fee. In addition, you will need a slate frame, scissors, baby brush, ruler, kitchen towel and a small jar with a lid (think small marmelade glass). You will probably also need magnification.
What level of embroidery experience do you need?
Whilst it is not at all necessary to have any experience in goldwork embroidery, you do need to be beyond a total beginner in embroidery. Nobody but you can determine if this course is right for you. That's why I have provided pictures of all samples with their sizes.
What will the teaching format be?
Each lesson will comprise of a PDF-download with all the historical and technical information on the particular technique explored, a video abstract of that information, a video of me working the sample and giving tips, a zoom-meeting where you can meet fellow students and discuss the lesson and a classroom on NING (a closed social network) where you can find all the course material and keep in touch with your fellow students. And as always, I am only an email away!
The lessons will be released on NING each Monday at 10 am CET. Students can log onto NING and access the new lesson after 10 am CET each Monday. Access to NING and all course material is guaranteed until 30-04-22. The zoom-meetings will take place on Saturdays 19h CET and will be recorded. This enables those that cannot attend live to catch up. However, these zoom-meetings are optional and it is perfectly possible to successfully work your way through the course without attending them.
What will it cost?
The fee for this 10-week in-depth hands-on and academic medieval goldwork embroidery course will be €490. This includes a full kit but excludes shipping fees. The full course fee needs to be paid upon registration. The course fee is non-refundable. Due to the pandemic, your kit ships soon after registration to make sure it arrives in time. Therefore cancellations cannot be honoured.
The course fee needs to be paid through my webshop with either PayPal or a credit card. Unfortunately, my website provider does not allow alternative payment options. Processing registration and payment through my webshop ensure everyone a fair chance at securing one of the 15 spots available for this course.
Questions?
Here to help! Shoot me an email. If the question is relevant for all prospective students, I will update this page accordingly.
A full kit with all the fabrics, spools of goldthreads, bundles of silk, needles and design transfer materials will be provided and is included in the course fee. In addition, you will need a slate frame, scissors, baby brush, ruler, kitchen towel and a small jar with a lid (think small marmelade glass). You will probably also need magnification.
What level of embroidery experience do you need?
Whilst it is not at all necessary to have any experience in goldwork embroidery, you do need to be beyond a total beginner in embroidery. Nobody but you can determine if this course is right for you. That's why I have provided pictures of all samples with their sizes.
What will the teaching format be?
Each lesson will comprise of a PDF-download with all the historical and technical information on the particular technique explored, a video abstract of that information, a video of me working the sample and giving tips, a zoom-meeting where you can meet fellow students and discuss the lesson and a classroom on NING (a closed social network) where you can find all the course material and keep in touch with your fellow students. And as always, I am only an email away!
The lessons will be released on NING each Monday at 10 am CET. Students can log onto NING and access the new lesson after 10 am CET each Monday. Access to NING and all course material is guaranteed until 30-04-22. The zoom-meetings will take place on Saturdays 19h CET and will be recorded. This enables those that cannot attend live to catch up. However, these zoom-meetings are optional and it is perfectly possible to successfully work your way through the course without attending them.
What will it cost?
The fee for this 10-week in-depth hands-on and academic medieval goldwork embroidery course will be €490. This includes a full kit but excludes shipping fees. The full course fee needs to be paid upon registration. The course fee is non-refundable. Due to the pandemic, your kit ships soon after registration to make sure it arrives in time. Therefore cancellations cannot be honoured.
The course fee needs to be paid through my webshop with either PayPal or a credit card. Unfortunately, my website provider does not allow alternative payment options. Processing registration and payment through my webshop ensure everyone a fair chance at securing one of the 15 spots available for this course.
Questions?
Here to help! Shoot me an email. If the question is relevant for all prospective students, I will update this page accordingly.