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Historical Embroidery News...

A textile road-trip to Northern Italy

21/8/2017

15 Comments

 
Those of you who follow me along on Instagram @maerchenhaftesstickengrimm were treated to some pretty embroidery pieces last week. As part of the 'Samt und Seide 1000-1914. Eine Reise durch das Historische Tirol' (Velvet and Silk 1000-1914. A trip through historical Tyrol) exhibitions organised by the European Textile Academy, me and my husband visited Brixen/Bressanone and Klausen/Chiusa. We were completely blown away with the high quality embroidered textiles we saw and are already planning two more trips. Unfortunately, for most of you, Northern Italy is a bit further away than our three-hour drive. However, if you are ever in the neighbourhood, do visit the two museums I am going to introduce you to further below! They are absolutely worth it. And do take a print-out of this blog with you if you are not proficient in either German or Italian, as English is not the lingua franca in Northern Italy...
Adlerkasel Diözesanmuseum Brixen
First up is the Diözesanmuseum in Brixen. It houses the cathedral treasure of the former Diocese of Brixen. A large part of their permanent exhibition is devoted to textiles. The oldest being from around 1000 AD! However, this museum follows the modern concept of presenting historical art as art. Descriptions of the individual objects are very meagre and only available in German and Italian. There is nothing wrong with appreciating pieces as they are and enjoying the display in front of you. However, I would have liked to have the option of getting more information. Preferably as laminated information available in the display room AND a decent catalogue to take home. After all, I like to go to museums to learn and broaden my knowledge.
Adlerkasel Diözesanmuseum Brixen
That said, the sheer amount of high-quality exhibition pieces gets you into textile heaven in no time.
Pontifikalhandschuhe Diözesanmuseum Brixen
My favourite pieces were the oldest pieces. Just the idea that the Eagle Chasuble (Adlerkasel) dates to 1000 AD. It was made at the court of the Emperor of Byzantium and given to Bishop Albuin of Brixen. It was probably one of the first silken vestments which arrived in this part of Europe. Due to its great antiquity and pretty good conservational status, it is one of the most important textiles of Europe. Another highlight were these pontifical gloves dating to the 15th century. They feature email medallions from 11th century Byzantium, showing again how important this imperial city once was in medieval Christian Europe. And aren't these tiny beads made of freshwater pearls to die for? I definitely want a pair!
Orphrey Diözesanmuseum Brixen
Orphrey Diözesanmuseum Brixen
The museum also has several 15th. century orphreys on display. These heavily embroidered gold- and silk pieces were once appliqued onto a chasuble. Look at those couched diaper patterns forming a pretty background for the holy figures. Just unbelievable that someone cut through them to make them fit onto a new vestment...
Chasuble Diözesanmuseum Brixen
Chasuble Diözesanmuseum Brixen
Then there were 17th. century chasubles with colourful silk and goldwork embroidery. I particularly liked the one with the small and detailed flowers. Look at the iris worked in long-and-short stitch and then further embellished with tiny fly-stitches to give the speckled impression often seen on an iris. The other chasuble shows a particular style of silken laid-work with couching stitches I first encountered on an Italian piece in the Wemyss School of Needlework Archive. I think it is very colourful and pretty. Great sources of inspiration!
Antependium Loretoschatz Stadtmuseum Klausen
The next museum we visited was the Stadtmuseum in Klausen/Chiusa. They have by far the better (=higher quality embroidery) textile collection and it is displayed in such a way that you can get very close to the pieces and the lighting is excellent. Unfortunately, I wasn't allowed to take pictures. I didn't know I wasn't allowed to take any, so I can at least show you an antependium, or altar cover, from the Loreto treasure. And I (and the very friendly museum wardens) hope that it will whet your appetite so that you plan a visit too. And that you will help spread the word that this museum has a textile collection of high importance. As they are a tiny museum with an equally tiny budget, they need our help. So please show them some love.
Antependium Loretoschatz Stadtmuseum Klausen
But first, let me tell you a little bit more about what is called the Loreto Treasure. Maria Anna of Neuburg became queen of Spain, Sicily, Naples and Sardinia when she married king Charles II of Spain in 1690. She brought with her her confessor Pater Gabriel Pontifeser born in Klausen. He was a trusted and loyal advisor and she pledged to build him a monastery in his hometown of Klausen. The house he was born in was turned into a Loreto chapel. Queen Maria Anna, her husband and the Spanish nobility gave beautiful religious objects to the chapel. The Loreto treasure was born.
Antependium Loretoschatz Stadtmuseum Klausen
Permanently on display in the museum are several highly decorated altar covers. Apart from the one displayed above, which was probably stitched in Sicily, there is a further piece stitched in wool on linen and a silk- and goldwork piece in the Ottoman-style. Interestingly with the piece I was able to photograph, the main part with its flowers, birds and butterflies is stitched with long-and-short stitch. However, the border shows the same laidwork technique as seen before on the chasuble in the Diözesanmuseum Brixen. Besides silk and gold threads, the piece is adorned with red coral beads. This piece is truly to die for! It is very seldom that you encounter embroidery of such high quality that has kept so well. Other spectacular pieces were several chasubles with the same high-quality silk and goldwork embroidery. If you are ever near, this is a museum not to be missed! I for my part, will be back to study these pieces in greater detail.
15 Comments
Rachel link
21/8/2017 18:21:37

What a spectacular piece! Somewhere else to add to my list of Places to See. Well worth your three hour drive, I think!

Reply
Jessica Grimm link
21/8/2017 18:44:18

Yes, I feel so fortunate that I live smack bang in the middle of Europe! Just a shame that due to the language barrier, these pieces are so little known in the English-speaking world. They need somebody who stumbles upon them and then translates and dissiminates. Well, I happily stumble over some more :)!

Reply
velia
21/8/2017 19:17:09

I can just imagine how beautiful these pieces are. You are so fortunate to live in proximity to all the art treasures that abound in Europe. Who would be so lucky. Thank you so much for sharing these reasures.

Reply
Jessica Grimm link
22/8/2017 09:20:18

You're welcome Velia! There will be more soon :).

Reply
Catherine link
21/8/2017 22:32:19

How wonderuto have seen these beautiful pieces! I am always amazed when I see these pieces created so long ago. Not just that they have withstood the test of time, but also the detail that went into creating them. Very skilled embroiderers at work. I hope to one day visit and see these beautiful pieces for myself!

Reply
Jessica Grimm link
22/8/2017 09:22:24

Yes, and think of how difficult it was to make such fine needles to create these pieces! I am always in awe when I see these really old pieces of beautiful embroidery. And I have ferreted out some more pieces which I will visit real soon :).

Reply
Sara den Otter
22/8/2017 14:25:05

Hallo Jessica, prachtig en leerzaam verhaal had je weer, mooie foto's. Dank je wel

Reply
Jessica Grimm link
23/8/2017 08:13:21

Graag gedaan Sara!

Reply
European Textile Academy Bozen link
23/8/2017 10:47:41

Dear Jessica, thank you very much for your appreciation and the enthusiasm. We too are very proud of the fine art pieces in display.
Let us add a couple of comments:
You said "this museum follows the modern concept of presenting historical art as art....However, I would have liked to have the option of getting more information. Preferably as laminated information available in the display room AND a decent catalogue to take home." We do agree. Hopefully the Brixen Dioezesanmuseum find time and money soon to take care of that.
Talking about pictures. You published a very large amount of details and fine pictures. Unfortunately, you signed them as "yours", putting on them your website address. Basically this can be quite a problem: only the displaying museum or a private collectioner owns images copyright and they only are entitled to use them with educational and publicity purposes or give permission to do so. Therefore you are normally not allowed to take so many pictures. Copyright or property infringements are serious matter online too.

Reply
Jessica Grimm link
23/8/2017 15:48:48

I am very sorry that I may have infringed on the copyrights of the Brixen Museum. I have set my Flickr account to private and will keep those albums private.

Reply
Accademia Tessile Europea link
23/8/2017 22:04:37

Thank you very much for your cooperation. Actually you wrote quite a fine article about our exhibition. We really appreciate your help. Congratulations for your exquisite works.

Ann
9/10/2017 15:18:07

Thank you for sharing. A good start to the afternoon and another insight into the historical aspects of embroidery.

Love your website and blog, always worth reading😊

Reply
Anne Gomes
12/10/2017 03:24:07

Hello, Jessica, I very much enjoy your blog, especially the articles about ecclesiastical embroidery.
I’m wondering if you have ever been to Benedictine Stift Admont in Tirol, Austria.
The collection is breathtaking.
Here is a link.
https://www.stiftadmont.at/en/?s=Frater+Benno+Hahn
Thank you, Anne Gomes

Reply
Debbie
12/8/2020 11:22:49

I know you wrote this entry quite some time ago , but I wanted you to know that I so enjoyed reading and seeing your fascinating photographs this morning . Thankyou for sharing :)

Reply
Dr. Jessica Grimm link
12/8/2020 18:15:25

Glad you liked it Debbie! Seems eons ago now. Theoretically, we are allowed to cross the borders again, but I don't deem it safe to do. Hopefully I can travel more freely again the year after next!

Reply



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