Last week, I was finally able to pick up my copy of 'Raised Embroidery: Techniques, projects and pure inspiration' from the bookstore! It is the latest addition to the highly successful Search Press series of embroidery books from the Royal School of Needlework. And this one was written by Kelley Aldridge: my first tutor at the Royal School of Needlework. My embroidery life evolving thereafter is in a way all her fault :). Let's have an in depth look at this latest addition to my ever expanding embroidery book collection! What I really like about this book, even before opening it, it has the new larger format. The first eight books in the series were rather small (c. A5). At around 100 pages they were perfect for beginners, but had little to offer for more experienced embroiderers. This book has 144 pages and is about A4 in size. And Kelley makes excellent use of this larger canvas! As with all books in this series, the book starts with a short promotional story on the RSN. Then it carries on with an explanation of what raised embroidery is. It immediately clarifies that it is not only about 17th century stumpwork techniques modified for the 21st century stitcher. The book also looks at textured embroidery stitches known from for instance Brazilian embroidery. Having clarified the scope of the book, Kelley carries on with a short historical overview. As the aim of the book is to have you stitching, the part on choosing the right materials, from needles, to fabric, threads, frames and other tools, is much more elaborate. And explores some fun stuff you might not have thought to incorporate into your next masterpiece. What I find absoluteley fantastic about this particular book: it has a whole section devoted to 'Inspiration and Design'. Here you can look Kelley over her shoulder to see how she comes up with her raised embroidery designs. It starts very basic with choosing the size and shape of your future piece, its function and selecting the materials you want to incorporate. However, Kelley also reveals that she is a great fan of using mood boards to come up with embroidery design ideas. This section is absolutely perfect for those stitchers who find it hard to find the confidence to create their own pieces. Kelley clearly demonstrates a quite structured way of creating and subsequently stitching your own design. This can, of course, be applied to all forms of needlework! And, true to her training at the Royal School of Needlework, she strongly advocates that you think the piece over carefully before you start. Think about the order of work before you start. It greatly increases your stitching pleasure as you probably do not have to deal with 'road blocks' which often lead to another AMP (abandoned masterpiece). However, thinking it over does not mean that the process is now set in stone! Oh no, you can still tinker and tweak. It just reduces the risk of producing a roof without supporting walls :). As already seen in the other books in this series, this one also contains a whole section on how to dress your hoop or slate frame, transfer your design onto fabric and starting and ending threads. Followed by sections on commonly used padding techniques, attaching stitches (think couching and Sisha), raised stitches, needle lace and creating wired shapes. This section provides a beginner to intermediate stitcher with enough tools to start stitching. The 'second part' of the book is devoted to easy to follow step-by-step embroidery projects and pure inspiration from contemporary embroiderers. It kicks off with wearable raised embroidery and a project to make a lovely colourful brooch. I really love this piece as it shows you different ways of using common materials and stitches. It provided me with a real 'oh, I never thought of that (but from now on I will!)'. The following pages are filled with brooches, cuffs, necklaces and fascinators made by such talented people like: Lisa Bilby, Helen Richman & Jen Goodwin. Next up are the 'useable raised embroideries' with a project to make a sleeve for your phone. You are walked through this project from the start of the design stage right up to finished product. This is what makes this book so good! And the project pages are again followed by pages full of pure eye-candy featuring outstanding embroidered boxes to store needlework supplies, an embroidered book cover and a stunning fully three-dimensional embroidered bird etui by Jenny Adin-Christie. So proud that my, simple in comparison, RSN-Diploma box 'Hansel & Gretel' is on the mirroring page! And last but not least, are the 'collectible raised embroideries' with a funny biscornu as the step-by-step project. The last pages of the book are filled with stunning embroidered objects by such talented people as Angela Bishop, Kate Barlow, Victoria Laine, Holly Coleman, Hattie McGill, Elena Thornton, Laura Baverstock, Stella Davies and Kelley Aldridge herself.
This book is a real treat! And equally so for beginners right up to very experienced stitchers. The large number of embroidered pieces by artists trained to a very high standard at the Royal School of Needlework makes this book to a must-have addition for your embroidery library. As always, please support your local bookstore if you can. Mine here in Germany was able to order the book for me within days for as little as €18,99. I consider this a bargain and am sure that I will treasure this gem for years to come. Thank you Kelley for writing such an inspiring embroidery book! P.S. I wasn't able to find personal websites for all the above mentioned artists. If you know of one, please leave a comment below and I will update this post accordingly!
8 Comments
Mabel
26/6/2017 17:29:05
Jessica dit is werkelijk prachtig om van te smullen lieve groetjes uit een zonnig Dordrecht
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26/6/2017 21:16:18
Ja, dat klopt Mabel! Technisch staat er zulk hoogwaardig werk in. Echt een verademing in vergelijk tot veel andere boeken op borduurgebied.
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26/6/2017 21:20:21
Yes, Catherine, I think it will help 'newbies' with their design process tremendously. And I am an advocate of planning before you start. That's probably the most important lesson I learned from my time with the RSN. Unfortunately, I find it often hard to persuade my students to do the same. We live in a world that worships quick fixes like a religion...
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26/6/2017 21:21:38
Oh, not to worry Rachel. IKEA has not yet announced that they will stop producing cheap bookshelves :).
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Erica Marsden
26/6/2017 23:26:10
Jessica, I have just finished an as yet unpublished review of this book, for the newsletter of the guild I belong to. Like you, I was impressed with the design section and like you, I was enchanted by the book and decided to make the brooch. It should not have taken as long as it did. The instructions were just not adequate. I had to refer to my favourite stitch dictionaries and to Mary Corbett's far superior instructions to attach the sisha mirror. Ditto with cast on stitch. I already know how to do bullions. I did feather stitch instead of vermacilli stitch in the circle just outside the sisha mirror - the cast on stitches and bullions completely covered it so not sure why that (vermecilli) was even there? As I have done vermecilli stitch before, I thought that even in the outer ring, it would be too cramped so substituted double seed stitch. There were no specific instructions as to how to twist the cast on stitches and bullion stitches together or how many wraps they needed to be. It took a while and much unpicking and re-stitching before I was satisfied. Then the ring...I took a close look at those instructions and decided it was ridiculously fiddly. That form of padding is no doubt needed when doing some raised work but was over the top for a wee brooch. Instead I made a soft ring by measuring the size on the pattern, then looping perle 5 around three of my fingers until I was satisfied with the thickness I had. I then bound silk ribbon around it and will, today sometime, couch it on. SO much easier and really effective. So, in short, I ended up rather disillusioned about the book and have rewritten some of my review. Now I am really wondering if the design section is actually all that great after all. Given my experience with the brooch, I am not at all sure I can trust it.
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27/6/2017 08:34:03
Dear Erica,
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