Asking for beer at 9:30h in the morning raised a few eyebrows next door at the abbey. Assuring Friar Markus that it was needed for an embroidery experiment did not improve things much. But it was the truth. What had happened? During my talk for MEDATS, I asked the audience for help with the madder conundrum. Whilst oil will do the trick, the greasy halo is very unsightly. Afterwards, I was contacted by Deborah Fox, who had done some dyeing experiments herself and she suggested alcohol. Ale was omnipresent in the Middle Ages as most water was too polluted to drink. I had always dismissed this option as I had a feeling that the hydrophobic madder would still think beer was too watery. However, I live next door to Ettal Abbey and they have been brewing and making liqueur for hundreds of years. Friar Markus was kind enough to sponsor the experiment with some homemade booze. For the experiment, I dissolved (or tried to dissolve) an 8th of a teaspoon of madder powder into a teaspoon of pale lager (5.2%), a stout (7.2%) and liqueur (40%). I drew three 3x3 cm rectangles with iron gall ink on my normal white embroidery linen. As I had expected, the pale lager and the stout were too watery for the madder's taste. It would not dissolve at all. But it did dissolve beautifully in the liqueur. And the smell was really nice too. Very herbal. I let the samples dry for a couple of hours. All did produce a bit of a halo but nothing too bad, I think. When the samples were completely dry, I brushed off the excess madder powder. Oh, dear! We get a very similar result to my experiments with only water. The madder just does not go into the linen enough as it does with the oil. And we still have a halo. This probably means that booze isn't the complete solution either. Maybe several substances were mixed with the madder powder to get the right result? More experiments are needed!
17 Comments
Jill Hall
26/2/2024 15:22:53
I saw a programme about the experimental dying done with madder to recreate the colours used in the Bayeux tapestry. Maybe you could get data from them to support your experiments? Muse de la Reine Mathilde, Bayeux.
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26/2/2024 19:26:34
Dyeing wool with madder is not really the problem, Jill. I am looking for a paint-like substance that can be applied to an embroidery design with great precision.
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Paul Welters
26/2/2024 15:52:45
That is most interesting. I think linen is difficult to dye. I read somewhere that until the advent of chemical dyes getting a strong colour with linen using most natural dyes was pretty much impossible.
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26/2/2024 19:28:28
Yes, that's true Paul. And that is why the use of a paint-like madder substance on some medieval goldwork embroideries is so intriguing. Precisely because the colour is so strong.
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Lela Popp
26/2/2024 16:15:45
Was the linen prewashed to remove any starches which would prevent the dye from completely absorbing? Was alum used in the middle ages to prep linen for dying?
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26/2/2024 19:30:11
That's what I am starting to suspect now, Lela. I think they did something to their linen to make it more receptive to the madder dye. Alum mordanting would probably be the way to go.
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Karen Carson
26/2/2024 16:47:58
Very interesting experiment. Thank you for sharing.
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Melody Mcmath
26/2/2024 19:41:51
Have you tried the great medieval elixir of urine?
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26/2/2024 20:31:35
Probably not a good idea, Melody. Urine contains sulphur and this would oxidize the silver in the gold threads.
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Frieda sorber
29/2/2024 09:49:05
They may have used a lake made from madder and a mordant like alum. This was well known in the middle ages. Making a lake from dye stuffs was common for miniature painting and you can get vibrant colors. The principle is that you have the dye bind with a mordant, to make it into lake or fake pigment. After drying and grinding you can mix the powder with the desired medium.
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Linda Hadden
26/2/2024 22:03:16
Absolutely brilliant x
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Deborah Fox
27/2/2024 19:00:28
well, thanks for trying! I'm disappointed, but linen is harder to dye than silk or wool.
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27/2/2024 19:25:03
My pleasure, Deborah! And you were right that the madder does dissolve well in the stronger liqueur. I just need to do something to the linen first, I think.
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28/2/2024 18:31:34
We would have the problem of the sulphur again, Rachel. And I suspect that the tempera clogs up the holes of my embroidery fabric.
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