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Historical Embroidery News...

Creating modern pieces using heritage skills

14/8/2017

12 Comments

 
Today I am going to write a bit about my love affair with Schwalm embroidery. You see, I can pinpoint exactly where I encountered this pretty whitework embroidery technique for the first time. Not in its native Hessia, one of the federal states of Germany. Nope. It was Inspirations issue 69 in the spring of 2011. The beautiful 'Sense of Place' by Luzine Happel featured hearts, sunflowers and tulips filled with pretty patterns. I so wanted to learn this embroidery technique! But, I had never done any whitework embroidery other than a huge Richelieu window pane featured in an embroidery special of the Dutch Libelle. Luckily, I had just started my Royal School of Needlework Diploma course. And it happened to include a whitework module. Little did I know that they had never heard of this type of embroidery. And my tutors weren't thrilled at the prospect of teaching me something they were not familiar with. So I ended up with a whitework sampler featuring only a little bit of true Schwalm embroidery. And yes, I didn't like the prospect of an all-white piece either :).

RSN Diploma whitework embroidery
Now most of you will by now know that I don't like table cloths. Although, to be honest, there is nothing wrong with these pieces of textile. It is just that when I tell people that I embroider for a living, THEY picture me amidst heaps of neatly stacked embroidered table cloths. Now that gives me goose bumps. But for the wrong reasons. It truly freaks me out. Embroidery is so much more than just a means to adore a table cloth! Instead, one of the Schwalm-things I made was a nativity scene to be hung in front of my kitchen window. It is an ongoing process and I hope to add camels, a donkey and an ox this year.

Schwalm embroidery nativity
And although I like white, I like colour better. White reminds me of those pretty shoes I once had as a girl. They were lovely, but not so white for long. The same with those pretty lacily white stockings me and my younger sister wore under our Sunday dresses as girls. They attracted dirt like nobody's business. So in came the use of colour in my Schwalm embroidery projects.

Schwalm embroidery purse
Now, traditional Schwalm embroidery is done with cotton a broder. A not so shiny non-strandable cotton thread. It is nice, but cotton perle and silk threads are nicer. Or at least in my opinion they are. I especially like to use variegated threads as they form pretty colour patterns when used with the many different Schwalm filling stitches.

Elegant Schwalm embroidery butterfly kit
So, by now, I had changed the colour of things, the materials and the stitching topic. What's next? How about adding a stumpwork technique to the mix? Using wired elements with Schwalm embroidery really tickled my fancy! It looks so elegant and yet isn't too hard to create at all. If you would like to have a go, why not try my 'Elegant Schwalm Butterfly' pattern or full kit? A great way to learn the basics of Schwalm embroidery without ending up with a (partly-stitched UFO) table cloth :).

Elegant Schwalm embroidery butterfly pendants
But I wasn't quite finished yet! How about one shrinks the butterfly? For instance, until it fits a tiny 4cm Dandelyne wooden hoop. Thanks to my training in Appenzeller whitework embroidery, I knew that you can add tiny filling stitches (some the same as in Schwalm embroidery; after all there is only so much you can do with a blank grid) into a tiny grid of withdrawn threads. Born where the elegant butterfly pendants! Still using original heritage skills, but sans the table cloth. After weeks of stitching (one butterfly takes about six hours to create), I now have a colourful bunch of lovely butterfly pendants for sale in my webshop.

If you would like to know more about the traditional form of Schwalm embroidery (including its use on folk costumes), check out Luzine Happel's website and blog. Also available in English. Luzine self-published a whole library on Schwalm embroidery. These are very good books if you want to learn this pretty whitework technique. I highly recommend them! The books are available in German, English and even French. Happy stitching!
12 Comments
Catherine link
14/8/2017 22:39:55

I really love your take on a very traditional craft! I love white whitework - to me it is just so elegant. But your butterflies are stunning! I'm seriously considering getting one of your patterns to try out this technique!

Reply
Jessica Grimm link
15/8/2017 09:51:33

Thank you Catherine! And I would be honoured if you stitch one of my designs 😇

Reply
Erica Marsden
15/8/2017 03:44:50

Jessica, quite a few years ago now, I bought two books on Schwalm work. I gave up. Neither book had clear instructions. Then I stumbled upon Luzine's work and one of her books. Her instructions are so beautifully clear. I made a small supper cloth (in white, I am afraid) which is permanently draped over my telephone (and other random stuff) table. I love it! I agree with you - her skill and passion for Schwalm work is matched by her skill for writing how to stitch it!

Reply
Jessica Grimm link
15/8/2017 09:53:45

That's lovely to hear Erica! Luzine is so generous with her knowledge and her books are a great resource. And so is her blog; I really like all the background information on the Schwalmer Tracht.

Reply
Dorothea von Wensiersky
15/8/2017 09:00:40

Hallo Jessica, wo bekomme ich die Vorlagen für so eine schöne Krippe her??
Ich liebe die Weißstickerei, ein Mustertuch zusticken wäre auch mal eine schöne Herausforderung

Bis bald
Dorothea

Reply
Jessica Grimm link
15/8/2017 09:57:04

Die gibt es vorläufig nur bei mir im Advent vorm Küchenfenster. Aber im Blogarchiv findest du mehr zur dieser Krippe!

Reply
Rachel link
15/8/2017 12:06:11

I'm with you about the tablecloths. And framed samplers. And little round footstools!

Reply
Jessica Grimm link
15/8/2017 12:12:53

Little round footstools, SHUDDER! Hadn't thought of those Rachel :).

Reply
Dima link
15/8/2017 17:24:52

I get asked the same thing about table clothes. Although I wouldn't mind the challenge of making one one day, I don't know if I'd want to. I'd never want to use it :P I love how you combined two techniques together. And I agree with you: white is lovely but sometimes you just want that hint of color.

Reply
Jessica Grimm link
15/8/2017 19:47:38

Dima, I think it is our age. We are just still too young to stitch and use tablecloths 😂

Reply
Elaine Cochrane
16/8/2017 01:35:49

Your Schwalm-style figures are beautiful. I love the way you have simplified the shapes and still captured their essence. Blue-white-gold is one of my favourite colour combinations.

Reply
Jessica Grimm link
16/8/2017 19:02:28

Thank you Elaine! I'll pass the compliment on to my husband who drew the figures.

Reply



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