Federkielstickerei

18/10/2017

I will be demonstrating gold embroidery and selling my embroideries at the Leonhardimarkt in Geitau from 3-11-17 until 5-11-17! This fair is organised by 'Fazination Handwerk' at the beautiful old farm 'Hasenöhrlhof'. Besides me, there will be bobbin lace making, tailoring, weaving, porcelain painting, gold- & silver smiting, woodturning, carpet making, wood carving, (book) restauration, shoemaking, millenary, wax working, reverse glass painting, passementerie, painting, knife making, watchmaking, leather working, chocolate making, lebkuchen baking and federkiel embroidery. Now, there is a good chance you have never read or heard the word Federkielstickerei before. Let me explain...

Federkielstickerei uses feather quills to embroider on leather. The tail feathers of a peacock are split to produce a workable 'thread'. The leather is prepared by using an awl to prick the holes (just like the hole drilling before you can embroider on eggs). Federkielstickerei is an old craft which requires a lot of skill. A Lederhosen (traditional leather breeches) decorated with this type of embroidery has been and still is of great value and seen as a status symbol. Another common sight with traditional men's clothing in the Alpine regions of Germany, Austria and Italy is the Kraxen or broad belt.

Below is a charming short video featuring Georg Leitner, one of the last men earning his living with this ancient form of embroidery:

Hope you enjoyed this blog post and I would love to meet you at the Leonhardimarkt early November :)!

16 Comments

Rachel link

18/10/2017 11:33:43

So, is he using the shaft of the feather as a thread? It does look fascinating!

Jessica Grimm link

18/10/2017 11:38:33

Yes, Rachel; he cuts off the fluffy bits and then splits the shafts into thin strips. That's an art in itself. The guy in the video does not want to explain how he does this exactly as it is a bit of a family secret.

Dima link

18/10/2017 16:53:55

This is such a cool technique! Thanks for sharing with us Jessica.

19/10/2017 09:02:11

You're welcome Dima!

Marina Berts

18/10/2017 17:00:15

Once I saw a man doing this in a Textile Show, I believe it was in Denmark. Wonderful wonderful products! Thanks for sharing this video!

19/10/2017 09:03:13

Ah, was he from Scandinavia or was he from the Alpine region demonstrating his craft in Denmark?

Catherine link

18/10/2017 20:05:59

So interesting! And I love that despite the family secrets it is still a craft being handed down the generations.
Good luck with your stall!

19/10/2017 09:04:45

Yes, and I like the passion he has for this profession. He is not going to get rich, but he appriciates his freedom. Quite a nice character, I imagine!

Ruth Adams

19/10/2017 05:32:38

Hello from Canada,
This form of embroidery resembles porcupine quill embroidery done by some of the native peoples of northern Ontario. In Europe you might think of this as "Indian", but I would appreciate the use of native or first peoples wen referring to our indigenous population. The experts of quill embroidery often sell basketry made of birch bark embroidered with the quills, but footwear and other clothing may also have designs worked on them.

19/10/2017 09:06:12

Thanks Ruth! Do they need to kill the porcupine to get the needles? And do you need to split the needles or do you use them whole? What a fascinating topic this is turning in to!

23/10/2017 19:48:58

Hello Jessica,
No, the porcupine does not need to be killed. Often a blanket is used to cover the animal and the needles of the quills hook into the fabric. The quills regrow. Tradition says that the animal is only to be killed by someone who is lost in the forest and needs food desperately. As to the preparation, the embroiderer needs to flatten the whole quill and moisten to make it more pliable; The quills can also be dyed at this point. Then the ends are poked into holes of the bark ground. I am not experienced in the technique, so I have only a general idea of the process.

23/10/2017 19:55:51

Thank you for the additional information Ruth! I am wondering if people over here dye the quills too? I only ever see white, but maybe that has something to do with the current taste. Will ask during the show in November!

Erica Marsden

19/10/2017 10:18:29

I am totally in awe of the skills needed for Federkielstickerei. I have never heard of it before. It is extraordinary and beautiful. Thank you so much for explaining it and for sharing your knowledge.

I am sorry I shan't see you at Leonhardimarkt - it's a bit far to come from Auckland! I hope it goes very well for you and other participants.

19/10/2017 11:30:31

Oh, but it would be fun to meet up, wouldn't it? I would love to really get to know the nice people reading my blog. One day, when tele-porting is in place :)!

Mary Corbet link

19/10/2017 13:03:44

Well, Jessica, this article and the video took me down a veritable rabbit hole of exploration! Fascinating and beautiful technique!

From the peacock feathers, to leather embellishment, to other traditional regional garb, eventually ending up at cow bells and Christmas markets and...! It was a great journey!

19/10/2017 14:10:01

I am delighted you liked it Mary!

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