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Historical Embroidery News...

Glazig embroidery: the work of Pascal Jaouen

12/12/2016

15 Comments

 
First of all, thanks to you all for the many supportive comments regarding my husband's job hunt! So very kind of you. We'll keep working on it and I am sure somewhere a door will open again.

And secondly: I received my prize today from the Stitch your heart out competition of Inspirations Magazine. The lovingly wrapped parcel contained a copy of the book 'The redwork circus' by Jenny McWhinney, one of my favourite embroidery designers and the ONLY book I didn't already have by her on my shelves :). Furthermore, the parcel contained the 'Robin' embroidery kit by the very talented Nicola Jarvis. And to top it off, I also received a packet of postcards and a tea towel with the 'Frosty Garden' design by Nicola Jarvis. It really felt like Christmas. The fox itself is still down-under enjoying the warm sunshine. Inspirations is planning a really wonderful thing for you all; fingers crossed it will come to fruition!

Thirdly (this is the last point, I promise): I've opened my own Etsy-Shop to sell my hand-stitched pendants. Normally, I sell these when I demonstrate embroidery at the museum in Oberammergau. However, as the museum is closed during the winter months, I figured I might as well try to sell them online. A permanent link to my Etsy-Shop can be found on my shop page.

So, let's now explore the main objective of this blog post, shall we?
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As many of you know, I love exploring different embroidery techniques. A couple of weeks ago, I wrote about French boutis embroidery and my good friend and fellow embroidery tutor Marina Berts from Switzerland suggested that I'll give Glazig embroidery a go. When you say Glazig you say Pascal Jaouen. He is a designer and embroiderer from France who developed historical Glazig surface embroidery from Brittany into a vibrant modern art form. Do explore his website as the beautiful pictures of his haute-couture creations are stunning!

So, as I really liked his designs and was up for a new challenge, I ordered one of his kits. Thanks to Google translate and my very rusty school French, I managed the ordering process just fine. A couple of days later, my shiny kit arrived. Now I had to tackle even more French :).
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The kit contains a piece of linen with the design screen-printed on. I am not a huge fan of this as it means that I'll need to cover all the lines and can't adapt the design much (in fact, when I started stitching I soon noticed that there are design lines on my fabric, that are not to be found on the photograph of the design...). It further contained a piece of thick woollen cloth, a needle, a crystal cabochon, pre-cut silk #12 perle threads and instructions. All prettily packed in a super handy tin.

I started by translating the instructions. There isn't much there. Apart from a short note on Pascal and Glazig embroidery, it only tells you that you shouldn't use a hoop, you should baste the two layers of fabric together, keep your threads short, start with the chain stitches and don't wash afterwards as the wool will shrink. And that's it. On the back of the instructions is a clear picture of the finished design (the one that doesn't exactly exactly match the lines on my pre-printed fabric) and a working sketch detailing which stitches go where. The instructions to the 10 different stitches used in the design can be found on separate cards also packed into the kit. This is of course a clever solution to keep your kits, and especially your instructions, economical.
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And this is how far I've come after I sorted the threads and cut them to the recommended length. And yes, I do use a hoop :). The fact that I can't wash the piece after I've embroidered it, made me decide to use a hoop. This will mean that I am not exactly following Pascal's instructions as apparently you stitch the chain stitches only through the linen and not through the wool. I can't quite envisage this, not even when I would hold the piece in my hands. I suspect that you do scoop up some wool every now and then.

The wool is a mystery to me, to be honest. In the instructions it says that the wool prevents puckering and gives a dimensional effect to the embroidery. Hmmm, actually, the non-puckering and the dimensional effect exclude each other, in my opinion. And looking at the picture of the finished design, it doesn't quite work. What I suspect is that using the linen onto the wool recreates the original feeling of stitching on traditional clothing. Glazig embroidery was used to adorn the men's clothes of the Quimper region in Brittany.

And see all the thread tails hanging on my piece? Although the instructions say that you should start with the chain stitches and then commence into the more complicated stitches, I could tell from the picture that one and the same thread was used in going from one type of stitch to the next. So, I will finish all my chain stitches first, but will still be able to continue into the next type of stitch with the same thread. And I do like the stitching! The colours are so vibrant and the design is so much fun. I can't wait to start some of the stitches specific to this type of embroidery! I'll keep you posted on my progress in a further post.

Meanwhile, would this kit be for you? Not being fluent in French isn't a problem as Google translate provides you with a decent enough translation. However, if you are used to step-by-step instructions, this kit doesn't provide that. You have to figure out a lot for yourself and fix a few flaws here and there. So, if you like Pascal's vibrant designs as much as I do, you love an interpretational challenge and you are prepared to fork out between €35 and €75 plus pricey shipping, then go for it! In the meantime, I would love to hear if you know of other embroidery designers offering kits in a special 'old' embroidery technique. Please do leave a comment below!
15 Comments
Enid
12/12/2016 17:47:14

Nice!

Reply
Catherine link
12/12/2016 19:11:32

What lovely bright designs! I can certainly see the attraction and can't wait to hear your thoughts on the traditional stitches used. I'm not sure I would be confident in getting an even stitch tension without a hoop, and I am a little intrigued about backing with wool. Something to try perhaps.

Reply
Jessica Grimm link
13/12/2016 08:16:35

It stitches a little bit more 'heavy', but not unpleasant!

Reply
Dima link
12/12/2016 20:10:37

The prize from Inspirations sounds wonderful. I actually bought one of Pascal Jaouen's kits when I visited Au Vers a Soie in Paris. I still haven't opened it yet. I bought Ceridwenn because the colors appealed to me.

Reply
Jessica Grimm link
13/12/2016 08:19:21

That's a pretty design too! Well, he has lots of pretty designs :). It will be interesting to see what you think of the kit. Will you post about it once you tackle it?

Reply
Dima link
13/12/2016 14:38:03

Of course :) Not sure when I will tackle it but I will share it on my blog for sure.

miss fairchild
13/2/2017 01:36:46

I just got back from Paris and I was studying embroidery but was there during the needlework expo and I bought one of Pascal Jouen's kits. I am a it stumped with the wool. Do you think it's necessary? Would you have preferred to not use it? I have never worked with anything like this and I have hand tremors so I can't possibly imagine working without a hoop. I am trying to figure out how to get started. If you could give me any advice it would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

Reply
Jessica Grimm link
13/2/2017 11:59:49

Hello! I think you will be ok stitching only through the linen and not use the wool as backing. Stricktly, it won't be Glazig embroidery anymore, but more like crewel or surface. Have fun! Jessica

Reply
Kimberly
6/4/2018 09:56:09

Hi Jessica,
I realize this post is a bit old, but I so appreciate you reviewing this kit and talking about glazig in English! I love glazig and I'm having a very hard time finding much on the internet in the way of tutorials, videos, or even a list of stitches used in glazig embroidery .
Short of going to France, are you aware of any online tutorials, videos, etc. On this type of embroidery.

Reply
Jessica Grimm link
15/4/2018 10:11:45

Hi Kimberly,
Good to hear that you found my blog post helpful! Unfortunately, I couldn't find anything helpful on the internet either. There's just too much of a language barrier when it comes to french embroidery techniques.
Have a nice day, Jessica

Reply
Rliana
7/12/2020 03:57:38

Qual a origem desse bordado?

Reply
Dr Jessica Grimm link
7/12/2020 08:13:50

Dear Rliana,
Glazig embroidery was used to adorn the men's clothes of the Quimper region in Brittany, France.
Kind regards, Jessica

Reply
Janet SUNDERANI
7/2/2021 16:46:34

I love the blog! I went to see the Jouen workshop but it was closed! Enjoyed peeking through the window at the threads and designs. Quimper is beautiful. I ordered three books about glazig embroidery and would like to try a design but am unfamiliar with the stitches mentioned in the guide. There are no pictures just design outlines. Galon de Plougastel, Pois Bigouden, Point Lang, Galon D'Eliant? Can you recommend any translation or stitch guide books?

Reply
Laura
12/2/2023 14:53:00

There are several alternatives to hoops. One is artist stretcher strips used to create a frame upon which the fabric is thumbtacked. Another is a scroll frame. This has two dowels that are inserted into cross bars. The cross bars have a hole with a thin slot at the end and another hole for a screw. You tack the embroidery onto the dowels.

Reply
Dr Jessica Grimm link
12/2/2023 15:03:14

Thank you for your comment, Laura! I usually use a traditional slate frame for all of my embroidery. However, glazig embroidery is traditionally worked in hand without any other equipment than a needle and a pair of scissors.

Reply



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