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Acupictrix - Dr Jessica Grimm
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Historical Embroidery News...

New Goldwork project: Saint Laurence

27/3/2016

9 Comments

 
Before I'll start this week's blog post, I'd like to express my gratitude to the many of you who left messages of support on my blog or via email. Thank you very much!

As a form of continued professional development, I'd like to complete at least one larger embroidery project a year. This year's CPD is going to be inspired by a medieval orphrey kept at the Museum Catharijneconvent in Utrecht, the Netherlands. I wrote a blog entry on an exhibition of medieval goldwork embroidery from the Netherlands held at the museum last year. You can find a picture and details of the orphrey of St. Laurence patron saint of Rotterdam, and indeed many excellent pictures of embroidery, in their catalogue. I contacted the museum for a high resolution digital picture of the piece. They were very helpful and within days I had the information I wanted.
Picture
Firstly, I spend several hours on redrawing the image from the picture. Older textiles have a tendency to distort. After I was happy with the result, I made a pricking and pounced it. Painting with water colour on c. 40 ct. natural coloured linen wasn't easy. So far, I only had experience with nice smooth silk. My lines are a little thick and my paint didn't stay at the right fluidity for long. However, since the whole picture will be solidly packed with either gold threads or silk, it is not a problem. By the way, I used my brand new high quality beech wood slate frame hand made locally. Would you like to work with the Rolls Royce of embroidery frames too? They are now available from my webshop.

As you can see, the saint will be stitched separately from the background. He will be later appliqued to the background. I will also work some of the background ornaments separately. I intend to applique the whole piece on a scrap of red chasuble fabric.
Picture
I've decided to start work on the saint. He will be stitched in Chinese flat silk and fine Japanese thread. Chinese flat silk has the advantage that I can split it to very fine strands of fib6res. This will be especially important for my tapestry shading of the detailed face.
Picture
As we attended Easter mass at 5:00h this morning, you will appreciate that I started with the least intricate part of Laurence: his shoes. They are worked in tapestry shading using two shades of a lovely dark chocolate. I split the flat silk in two. My tapestry shading is worked over a split stitch edge. That's all I managed today :).

Tomorrow, two ladies from Switzerland and two from Germany will join me for a five-day course on Goldwork embroidery. I am looking forward to meet them and spent a week sharing my knowledge with them. More on their results in next week's blog. After that, I'll regularly keep you update on St Laurence.
9 Comments
Mary Corbet link
27/3/2016 22:33:32

Hi, Jessica! I'm so excited to see this piece develop - I'll be eagerly watching from afar. His feet look great! :-)

Reply
Jessica Grimm link
28/3/2016 18:42:25

Me very excited too :). I have wanted to start this for so long. Probably make a lot of mistakes along the way as working from a picture is simply not the same as having access to the real piece. I imagine the original medieval embroiderers laughing their socks off...

Reply
liz n.
28/3/2016 00:32:07

Hey, at least St. Laurence doesn't have to go barefoot, right?

Looking forward to hearing about how the goldwork sessions go! Working one-on-one with just a few people is a treat.

Reply
Jessica Grimm link
28/3/2016 18:44:47

Hi Liz,
Yep, he is definitely not one of the poor friars :). The goldwork class is going well. Exciting designs developing. I always wanted to do the bug page from Hazel Evret's book. Now I can just relax and watch somebody else doing it. How cool is that?!

Reply
Natalie Dupuis link
21/4/2018 02:15:36

I have stitched up the bugs from Hazel's book with some modifications and make it to look like they were insects in a box at an insectarium. How fun was that!

Catherine link
29/3/2016 20:05:23

Oh how exciting! I'm really looking forward to watching this piece develop. Enjoy your time with your Goldwork ladies! And thanks for your kind words on my elephant. Nothing compared to your beautiful creations!

Reply
Jessica Grimm link
29/3/2016 21:27:41

Thank you Catherine! It is magical to put in the first rows of silver japanese thread to form his alb. Can't wait to put a few more in tomorrow morning!

Reply
Julie
15/8/2016 23:27:13

Jessica, this is an amazing project which I feel privileged to watch from afar! I love your wooden bobbin set. May I ask where you got the pieces?

Reply
Jessica Grimm
16/8/2016 09:25:58

Hi Julie,
I have these wooden bobbins made locally and you can order them through my webshop: http://www.jessicagrimm.com/store/c6/Zubeh%C3%B6r_--_Accessories.html.
Thanks, Jessica

Reply



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