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Historical Embroidery News...

One beaded Antependium leading to another!

22/4/2019

8 Comments

 
A couple of weeks ago I was contacted by Mary Gobet, President of the Portland Bead Society, about the beaded antependium (altar cloth) in the Regensburger Domschatz. We had both visited the Regensburger Domschatz a couple of years ago and were intrigued by the piece. However, as it is located behind glass at the top of a flight of stairs, it was impossible to shoot good pictures. And the information only read: Antependium, Regensburg, um 1890, design Vicar Dengler, embroidery with strung pearls, vellum, catalogue number 114. Alles klar? Nope, not really. Together we started to look for literature on the piece and we also contacted the museum for more information. And then it became really interesting!
Picture
Beaded Antependium (93 x 272,5 cm) Regensburger Domschatz (copyright Regensburger Domschatz)
As far as we now understand it, the piece consists of strung pearls couched down on vellum for support. The vellum pieces are then cut out and sewn onto the background fabric. In this case, gold brocade backed by a double layer of linen. The detail and shading of the beads are absolutely exquisite! The piece was originally made in several monasteries of the diocese of Regensburg for the private chapel of the Bishop of Regensburg. It shows Christ Pantocrator flanked by the four evangelists. The two smaller pieces which would have covered the sides of the altar are also held at the museum  but are not on display.
Mary and I did not know of any other beaded Antependiums. But when we researched the history of this piece, it became clear there are more! Vicar Georg Dengler was the editor of the Magazin Kirchenschmuck (you can browse the magazine by clicking the link; beautiful drawings!) which was printed by Josef Habbel in Regensburg between 1888 and 1895. In the article on the Regensburg Antependium, Dengler states that the antependium was stitched in several monasteries in the diocese of Regensburg. A certain Prof. Klein from Vienna (who had already died before the magazine was printed between 1888 and 1895) had made cardboard templates for the figures. These templates (made of cardboard and in use for embroidery transfers since the Middle Ages) were partly copied by Dengler for his design.

But Dengler got his initial idea from somewhere else. And that somewhere else is modern-day Cheb in the Czech Republic. In Dengler's time better known by its German name of Eger. The museum there houses a medieval beaded Antependium. So I contacted the museum in Cheb and asked if the Antependium is on display. Initially, they told me that the Antependium is on display, but the museum is currently closed for renovations. Bummer! But then I got a second email asking if I would be able to get to Cheb within two to three weeks as renovations on the room with the Antependium had not yet started. Yeah! I am going on a field trip next week :). And I will tell you all about it in my next blog post!

P.S. I have, quite reluctantly, started a new Instagram account @jessicagrimmartembroidery However, as I am having a few exciting collaborations coming up in the next years, we need to be able to promote these and we feel that my website alone is not enough. So please do follow me and spread the word!
8 Comments
Rachel link
22/4/2019 13:26:07

I'm looking forward to a report on your field trip! And my goodness, the one you've already shown us is utterly spectacular!

Reply
Jessica Grimm link
22/4/2019 17:39:04

Thank you Rachel! I am very grateful that the museum makes an exception and that I will be able to see the piece up close.

Reply
Mary Corbet link
22/4/2019 14:40:44

Lovely! I can’t wait to read more about your research and discoveries!

Many years ago, I discovered Josef Habbel’s design portfolios, and through the help of folks in the rare books field, I was able to get my hands on a couple of the original folios. They’re large board folios that, when you untie the ribbons that hold them closed, open to reveal folded printed paper pages. The pages unfold so that the patterns for chasubles, cope hoods, altar pieces (antependiums, designs for large fair linens or small altar linens) - every kind of ecclesiastical use design - are all full sized. The designs are in sections and the repeats are marked with dashed lines. The figures, etc., are full, but their frames and settings can be switched out. Every page demonstrates a masterful use of space.

In any case, if you can come by the original folios - all of mine have come from Europe (Belgium and Germany), they are worth the price. They are pretty rare. My first step after receiving them was taking them to a blueprint printing company (for very large format printing) and having them copied and printed on two sets in vellum, and then scanned as PDFs and TIFFs. It’s another expensive step, but definitely worth the investment if ecclesiastical embroidery is your thing. They are beautiful folios.

Just thought you might want to keep your eye out for the originals, since you’re in the vicinity!

Looking forward to more, Jessica!

Reply
Jessica Grimm link
22/4/2019 17:42:44

Oh, wow, Mary! That's something very spectacular. I think I have seen these ones as originals (or parts of them), but couldn't afford them at the time. I already drooled over the online source as the drawings are just so beautiful. Many years ago, I was very lucky to work with an older archaeological technician who could draw like that. Now we are so used to digital drawings. Which have their merit, but it is just not the same!

Reply
Catherine link
22/4/2019 23:46:16

How fascinating! I’m looking forward to hearing more about what you find after your trip. It certainly sounds like it will open up a new world of embroidery techniques for you.

Reply
Jessica Grimm link
23/4/2019 12:04:02

Oh it does Catherine! I am intrigued by the prospect of stitching on vellum.

Reply
Catherine K.
29/4/2019 12:29:49

Hi Jessica, I can see the detective in you. Coupled with your attention to fine needlework - and beading too - you are discovering some amazing people and embroideries from the past. Wishing you all the very best for your field trip next week! And thank you for sharing your discoveries with us.

Reply
Jessica Grimm link
29/4/2019 15:16:47

Thank you Catherine! I feel very priveledged that I am able to see these stunning pieces in person.

Reply



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