• Home
  • Research
  • Learn
    • Setting up a Slate Frame
    • Events
    • Lectures
    • Alpine Experience 2023
    • Workshop Glentleiten
    • Workshop Halberstadt
    • Medieval Goldwork Course
    • Medieval Embroidery Study Group
    • FlossTube with the Acupictrix
  • Blog
    • Embroidery Projects & Techniques
    • Embroidery Tools & Materials
    • Research articles
    • Book Reviews
    • Other Reviews
    • Exhibitions
  • Webshop
  • About
    • Contact
    • Curriculum Vitae
  • Startseite
  • Forschung
  • Sticken lernen
    • Stickrahmen einspannen
    • Veranstaltungen
    • Vorträge
    • Alpine Experience 2023
    • Workshop Glentleiten
    • Stickkurs Halberstadt
    • Mittelalterliche Goldstickereikurs
    • Studiengruppe mittelalterliche Stickerei
    • Die Acupictrix auf FlossTube
  • Blog
  • Webshop
  • Über
    • Kontakt
    • Lebenslauf
  • Startpagina
  • Onderzoek
  • Leren borduren
    • Opspannen Slate Frame
    • Evenementen
    • Lezingen
    • Alpine Experience 2023
    • Workshop Glentleiten
    • Workshop Halberstadt
    • Cursus middeleeuws goudborduren
    • Studiegroep middeleeuws borduren
    • FlossTube met de Acupictrix
  • Blog
  • Webshop
  • Even voorstellen
    • Contact
    • Curriculum Vitae
Acupictrix - Dr Jessica Grimm
  • Home
  • Research
  • Learn
    • Setting up a Slate Frame
    • Events
    • Lectures
    • Alpine Experience 2023
    • Workshop Glentleiten
    • Workshop Halberstadt
    • Medieval Goldwork Course
    • Medieval Embroidery Study Group
    • FlossTube with the Acupictrix
  • Blog
    • Embroidery Projects & Techniques
    • Embroidery Tools & Materials
    • Research articles
    • Book Reviews
    • Other Reviews
    • Exhibitions
  • Webshop
  • About
    • Contact
    • Curriculum Vitae
  • Startseite
  • Forschung
  • Sticken lernen
    • Stickrahmen einspannen
    • Veranstaltungen
    • Vorträge
    • Alpine Experience 2023
    • Workshop Glentleiten
    • Stickkurs Halberstadt
    • Mittelalterliche Goldstickereikurs
    • Studiengruppe mittelalterliche Stickerei
    • Die Acupictrix auf FlossTube
  • Blog
  • Webshop
  • Über
    • Kontakt
    • Lebenslauf
  • Startpagina
  • Onderzoek
  • Leren borduren
    • Opspannen Slate Frame
    • Evenementen
    • Lezingen
    • Alpine Experience 2023
    • Workshop Glentleiten
    • Workshop Halberstadt
    • Cursus middeleeuws goudborduren
    • Studiegroep middeleeuws borduren
    • FlossTube met de Acupictrix
  • Blog
  • Webshop
  • Even voorstellen
    • Contact
    • Curriculum Vitae
EN | DE | NL

Historical Embroidery News...

New design for an (online) class

12/9/2022

34 Comments

 
A couple of years ago, I saw the so-called Wolfgang's chasuble at the Diocesan Museum Regensburg (you can read my blog about my 2015 visit). It had this lovely embroidered cross with birds and a four-legged animal amidst scrolling foliage. Although the goldwork embroidery is quite damaged, it is clear that it was once a very high-quality piece of medieval goldwork and silk embroidery. Its design would make for a lovely (online) embroidery class. I've asked my husband to clean up one of the bird designs and this is what he came up with.
Picture
Wolfgang's chasuble part of the Regensburg Domschatz (Inv. Nr. D 1974/101) made shortly after AD 1050 in Regensburg.
The original embroidery was made shortly after AD 1050, probably in Regensburg. A royal residency at the time, Regensburg likely housed the royal workshops when the court was in residence. The way this embroidery, and indeed the whole garment, was made differs markedly from most contemporary pieces. Those pieces are usually all over embroidered and the embroidery is directly worked onto a precious silken fabric or a linen fabric. Good examples of these are the Imperial Vestments, the Uta chasuble and the vestments from Saint Blaise now held in St. Paul im Lavanttal. Many heyday Opus anglicanum vestments also fall into this category. Not so Wolfgang's chasuble. This one has a strip of separately worked embroidery adorning the precious silken vestment. This would become the way forward for the rest of the medieval period and beyond. It is essentially the birth of the orphrey. These smaller pieces of embroidery were far more manageable and could be prepared in advance. Goldwork embroidery could move out of the specially equipped royal workshops and into, probably smaller and simpler, commercial workshops in the emerging towns.
Picture
Detail of the goldwork and silk embroidery on the Wolfgang's chasuble (Domschatz Regensburg, Inv. Nr. D 1974/101).
But we can clearly tell that the process of 'how to make an orphrey' was not yet set in stone. In this case, the embroidery seems awfully complex when it comes to its backing fabrics. What had the embroiderer done? It started with a piece of natural coloured silk twill/samite on top of a fine linen. All goldwork embroidery (and probably the stem stitch outlines) was worked that way. Then the piece was backed again with an extra layer of linen before the fine silken split stitches were worked. Curious don't you think? I was told that you back your embroidery when the stitching is particularly heavy. That would be the goldwork and not the silk. Just imagine the sore fingers from pushing a fine needle with silk through three layers of fabric... But I have an idea why the extra layer of linen was added: stiffness. Later, orphreys were routinely backed by gluing recycled paper on the back or simply stiffening the back with a layer of glue.
Picture
Design drawing for the goldwork and silk embroidery class.
As I am trying to get hold of the right-ish kind of fabrics for this project, I cannot tell you yet when this design will become available. What I can tell you is that it will be a pre-recorded class that you can work at your own pace. You can start whenever you like, and you will have access to the class videos for at least a whole year from the date of purchase. The class fee will include a full kit. You will have various kit options to choose from. This mainly involves different qualities of gold threads. I will also likely teach this design as a weekend-long class at Glentleiten Open Air Museum next year. How does that sound? Do let me know in the comments, please!
34 Comments
Andrejka
12/9/2022 11:16:34

Hi Jessica.
This class sounds lovely. I also have a question. Do you have any information about the glue used for stiffening the fabric. Thank you. Happy stitching.

Reply
Dr. Jessica Grimm link
12/9/2022 11:49:50

Oh, that would be so nice to have a bit more detail on the components of the glue. Unfortunately, as far as I know, this is not stated in the available literature. I imagine, they could have used bone glue or wheat paste.

Reply
Andrejka
15/9/2022 08:09:40

The lack of information in soooo frustrating. In Slovenia, they stiffened the headgear with glue, but the ladies who embroider "hauben" don't know or don't want to share. Uhhhh

Dr. Jessica Grimm link
15/9/2022 12:02:13

Oh, that's so frustrating! Have you tried asking the Austrian or South-German ladies? They use glue too. Maybe you can find some information here: https://www.goldhauben-bezirk-perg.at/

Robin Mele
12/9/2022 11:51:08

This sounds like a lovely project, and I would be interested.

Reply
Dr. Jessica Grimm link
12/9/2022 11:58:39

Thank you for letting me know, Robin!

Reply
Kathrine R
12/9/2022 13:28:49

Hi Jessica, I would love to do one of your courses and online seems manageable. Just wondering about the materials that I could get over here in UK. Don't think it would be cost effective for you posting me a kit.

Reply
Dr. Jessica Grimm link
12/9/2022 14:19:19

Thank you for your encouragement, Katherine! Unfortunately, I cannot accept payment from people in the UK due the new Brexit regulations on VAT, sorry! And you would not be able to get the materials in the UK; they are simply not available. That's why all my classes always come with a full kit.

Reply
Ginger Scott
12/9/2022 13:31:49

I am really excited about this class proposal. I t sounds so very interesting. Can’t wait to learn more about it.

Reply
Dr. Jessica Grimm link
12/9/2022 14:19:47

Thank you, Ginger!

Reply
Melody
12/9/2022 14:24:42

I would be interested in an online self paced class

Reply
Dr. Jessica Grimm link
12/9/2022 14:53:53

Thank you for letting me know, Melody!

Reply
Darcy Walker
12/9/2022 14:33:19

Great idea. I would love this class. I hope you would consider adding a weekly Zoom for 1-2 weeks so we could talk about the project. Chat and pre-recorded are just not the same thing.
Darcy

Reply
Dr. Jessica Grimm link
12/9/2022 14:55:16

Thanks, Darcy! No, it will not contain a Zoom meeting. These get mostly poorly attended as people are so busy.

Reply
Darcy Walker
12/9/2022 14:48:13

I just read your article in Artizan Made. In modern times few appreciate hand made or the needle arts. I am always asked “what will you do with it?” Or, as you, how much/how long? Few appreciate the hours of practice to develope the skills . I know that my family is more likely to keep an Afghan that I knitted rather than any of my fine work embroidery or Goldwork pieces. So I simply say I enjoy this and I add a little beauty to the world.
Keep up the good work. Darcy

Reply
Dr. Jessica Grimm link
12/9/2022 14:55:45

Very true, Darcy!

Reply
Christine Brunner
12/9/2022 14:53:44

I would be interested in this class also.

Reply
Dr. Jessica Grimm link
12/9/2022 14:56:47

Thank you for letting me know, Christine!

Reply
Agne
12/9/2022 14:55:56

My first thought reading this text was "I want to Germany", or, to be precise, "I want to Bavaria". I had tickets to Nuremberg in May 2020, but Covid happened. Now I hope to visit Nuremberg, Munich or Bamberg next year (I guess, you can say, what I want to see). But this not so big project would be a great piece to do while waiting for my visit to Bavaria.

Reply
Dr. Jessica Grimm link
12/9/2022 14:57:26

Sounds like a good plan, Agne!

Reply
Agne
12/9/2022 15:26:41

It was a good plan in 2020 too :D I had to celebrate my birthday in Nuremberg, but I was spending my days at home with no hopes to travel... But I am still planning :D

Marie-Renée Otis link
12/9/2022 16:30:20

Your online course is very tempting.
It will depends on the price.
Do you ship to Canada ?

Reply
Dr Jessica Grimm link
12/9/2022 16:42:54

Thank you, Marie-Renee! Yes, I ship world-wide with the exception of the UK due to very difficult post-Brexit VAT regulations.

Reply
Helen Sewell Johnson
12/9/2022 17:18:37

I'd love another online class with you but would especially like one that includes Zoom meetings. The interactive parts are much better than those without Zoom. It is easier to ask questions.

Reply
Dr. Jessica Grimm link
12/9/2022 17:32:17

Thank you, Helen! However, this is going to be a pre-recorded self-paced class without Zoom. After two years of relentlessly chasing students if they please would be so kind to attend the Zoom classes, I have had enough. Sorry!

Reply
Rachel link
13/9/2022 11:55:42

It always gives me the heebie-jeebies to think of glue near my embroidery - I'd rather have the sore fingers!

Reply
Dr. Jessica Grimm link
13/9/2022 12:56:21

What amazes me most is that glue was used very successfully back then, but then people got it so wrong during older conservation attempts.

Reply
Rachel link
27/9/2022 21:09:21

There are fashions even in glues, I think, and certainly the earlier conservators had not had the Awful Warnings they have provided to us of what can happen if the chemical composition is too aggressive..

Victoria Wood
15/9/2022 04:59:10

Love that bird motif! I’m interested in your online class with a kit of materials. Sorry to hear about your past problem with zoom session attendance. I always enjoyed being able to see and talk with you and fellow students in real time, but I also understand why you choose not to have that component in your online class.

Reply
Dr. Jessica Grimm link
15/9/2022 12:03:01

Thank you, Victoria!

Reply
ANN HAMILTON
16/9/2022 02:29:10

I would be interested in this new class. I loved Medieval Goldwork and I like the idea of the work at your own pace.

Reply
Dr. Jessica Grimm link
16/9/2022 08:02:02

Thank you, Ann!

Reply
Helen Sewell Johnson
30/9/2022 22:47:44

I'd love another online class with you, A Zoom meeting or two would make it much more enticing. You already have the necessary cameras and equipment for that. Zoom classes offer much more possibility for learning from other students as well as the teacher and for exchanging ideas Even if some do not attend, the ones that do get a great deal from the meetings.

Reply
Dr. Jessica Grimm link
1/10/2022 09:32:25

Sorry, Helen, not this time. I know that you are one of the very few people who always show up. And I am grateful for that!

Reply



Leave a Reply.

    Picture
    Want to keep up with my embroidery adventures? Sign up for my weekly Newsletter to get notified of new blogs, courses and workshops!
    Newsletter

    Liked my blog? Please consider making a donation or becoming a Patron so that I can keep up the good work and my blog ad-free!
    Patreon


    Picture
    Picture
    Picture
    Picture

    RSS Feed

    Categories

    All
    Acupictrix
    Alison Cole
    Allgäuer Nadelstiche
    Alpine Experience
    Appenzell
    Applique
    Archaeology
    Art
    Art Nouveau
    Arts And Crafts Movement
    ArtTextil Dachau
    Au Ver A Soie
    Bag
    Barbaral Creations
    Bavarian Braces
    Bayrisches Nationalmuseum
    Beadwork
    Beate Pietzsch
    Benediktbeuern
    Berlin Woolwork
    Bisa Butler
    Blackwork
    Blog
    Bohemian
    Bookmark
    Book Review
    Boutis
    Bretsche
    Broche
    Brodse
    Byzantine Embroidery
    Cabinet Of Curiosities
    Canvas Work
    Caren Garfen
    Carolyn Pearce
    Castello Buonconsiglio
    Chasuble
    Children
    China
    Christmas
    Church Heritage Museum Vilnius
    Cope
    Coton A Broder
    Crafts Market
    Crete
    Crewel Embroidery
    Crossstitch
    Czech Republic
    Darning Patterns
    Debbie Rowley
    Diocesan Museum Augsburg
    Diocesan Museum Bamberg
    Diocesan Museum Eichstätt
    Diocesan Museum Trento
    Diözesanmuseum Brixen
    Dommuseum Fulda
    Dr Alexandra Makin
    Ebook
    Egerer Antependium
    Elisabeth Bräuer
    Elisabeth Bräuer
    Elisabeth Roulleau
    Embroiderers
    Embroidery
    Embroidery Hoops
    Embroidery Tools
    Epigraphy
    Exhibition
    Fabrics
    Fallahi
    Federkielstickerei
    Finishing Techniques
    Flea Market Finds
    FlossTube
    Folk Costume
    FREE Pattern
    Germanisches Nationalmuseum
    Gingham
    Glazig
    Glentleiten
    Gold Threads
    Goldwork
    Görlitz
    Görlitzer Sammlungen
    Guild Regulations
    Hazel-blomkamp
    History
    Hl. Kunigunde
    House Of Embroidery
    Iceland
    Inspirations Magazine
    Italian Couching
    Italy
    Jen Goodwin
    Jewellry
    Journal Of Dress History
    Just Nan
    Kelley Aldridge
    Kits
    La Droguerie
    Lecture
    Liberty Silks
    Linen Vestments From Tyrol
    London
    Louvre
    LoveCrafts
    Lusatia
    Madder
    Maison Sajou
    Marienberg Abbey
    Marketing
    Mary Corbet
    Metal Threads
    Miao People
    Middle Ages
    Millie Marotta
    Mindelheim
    M. Maurer
    Mokuba
    Moni Arkadi
    Monogram Stencils
    Mounting
    Munich
    Musee Cluny
    Museum Der Schwalm
    Nathalie Cichon
    National Silk Museum
    Nativity
    Needle Binding
    Needle Lace
    Needlepoint
    Negergarn
    Nordic Needle
    Online Class
    Opus Anglicanum
    Palestinian Embroidery
    Paris
    Pascal Jaouen
    Pattern Darning
    Plumetis Express
    Pope Francis
    Professional Embroidery Course
    Pronkrol
    Rationale
    Regensburger Domschatz
    Renaissance
    Ribbon Embroidery
    Riolis
    Romania
    Royal Garden
    Royal School Of Needlework
    Rüstkammer Dresden
    Samplers
    Schwalm
    Scissors
    Sherryll Cuneo
    Silesia
    Silk Ribbon
    Silk Shading
    Slate Frame
    Speyer
    Stadmuseum Klausen
    St Cuthbert
    Sternenmantel
    Stitchers Box
    StitchyBox
    St Laurence
    St Nick
    St Paul Im Lavanttal
    Stralsund
    Strawberry Fayre
    Studio
    Stumpwork
    Tambour Embroidery
    Tanya Bentham
    Tenntrådsbroderier
    Textile Art
    Textile Fair
    Thimble
    Tutorial
    Tyrol
    Ultramod
    Underside Couching
    Uta Chasuble
    Valdani
    Vestments
    Vic Cope
    Vienna
    Vierfachgarn
    Villach-Judendorf
    Webshop
    Whitework
    William Morris
    Workshop
    Yvette Stanton
    Zardozi
    Zweigart

    Archives

    March 2023
    February 2023
    January 2023
    December 2022
    November 2022
    October 2022
    September 2022
    July 2022
    June 2022
    May 2022
    April 2022
    March 2022
    February 2022
    January 2022
    December 2021
    November 2021
    October 2021
    September 2021
    July 2021
    June 2021
    May 2021
    April 2021
    March 2021
    February 2021
    January 2021
    December 2020
    November 2020
    October 2020
    September 2020
    August 2020
    July 2020
    June 2020
    May 2020
    April 2020
    March 2020
    February 2020
    January 2020
    December 2019
    November 2019
    October 2019
    September 2019
    August 2019
    June 2019
    May 2019
    April 2019
    March 2019
    February 2019
    January 2019
    December 2018
    November 2018
    October 2018
    September 2018
    August 2018
    July 2018
    June 2018
    May 2018
    April 2018
    March 2018
    February 2018
    January 2018
    December 2017
    November 2017
    October 2017
    September 2017
    August 2017
    July 2017
    June 2017
    May 2017
    April 2017
    March 2017
    February 2017
    January 2017
    December 2016
    November 2016
    October 2016
    September 2016
    August 2016
    July 2016
    June 2016
    May 2016
    April 2016
    March 2016
    February 2016
    January 2016
    December 2015
    November 2015
    October 2015
    September 2015
    August 2015
    July 2015
    June 2015
    May 2015
    April 2015
    March 2015
    February 2015
    January 2015
    December 2014

Contact: info(at)jessicagrimm.com
Copyright Dr Jessica M. Grimm - Mandlweg 3, 82488 Bad Ettal, Deutschland - +49(0)8822 2782219 (Weekdays 9.00-17.00 CET)

Impressum - Legal Notice - Datenschutzerklärung - Privacy Policy - Webshop ABG - Widerrufsrecht - Disclaimer
EN | DE | NL
  • Home
  • Research
  • Learn
    • Setting up a Slate Frame
    • Events
    • Lectures
    • Alpine Experience 2023
    • Workshop Glentleiten
    • Workshop Halberstadt
    • Medieval Goldwork Course
    • Medieval Embroidery Study Group
    • FlossTube with the Acupictrix
  • Blog
    • Embroidery Projects & Techniques
    • Embroidery Tools & Materials
    • Research articles
    • Book Reviews
    • Other Reviews
    • Exhibitions
  • Webshop
  • About
    • Contact
    • Curriculum Vitae
  • Startseite
  • Forschung
  • Sticken lernen
    • Stickrahmen einspannen
    • Veranstaltungen
    • Vorträge
    • Alpine Experience 2023
    • Workshop Glentleiten
    • Stickkurs Halberstadt
    • Mittelalterliche Goldstickereikurs
    • Studiengruppe mittelalterliche Stickerei
    • Die Acupictrix auf FlossTube
  • Blog
  • Webshop
  • Über
    • Kontakt
    • Lebenslauf
  • Startpagina
  • Onderzoek
  • Leren borduren
    • Opspannen Slate Frame
    • Evenementen
    • Lezingen
    • Alpine Experience 2023
    • Workshop Glentleiten
    • Workshop Halberstadt
    • Cursus middeleeuws goudborduren
    • Studiegroep middeleeuws borduren
    • FlossTube met de Acupictrix
  • Blog
  • Webshop
  • Even voorstellen
    • Contact
    • Curriculum Vitae